I am a smoker and I have never felt so unwelcome on any of the other 28 ships I've sailed on. The ship went out of it's way to make me feel like a second class citizen. You could not enjoy a smoke and a cup of coffee anyplace indoors except your cabin. No ash trays in the casino unless you asked for one. I noticed that they sell cigarettes on the ship but they don't want you to smoke them I guess. The ship itself was OK..
it looked like your grandmother decorated it. I was waiting for the doilies to be put on the chairs. Service in the dining room was like the other HAL ships I've sailed on - lousy. The waiters can't remember who ordered what and you have to ask for coffee or tea and the food wasn't that good. Cabin steward was great though. I don't think I'll choose HAL again.